Galway Summer Tempest

On the second part of my Irish journey this summer, I decided to take in Galway, a medieval town on the Western coast. After three days of intense heat in Dublin, a city I never thought I would see such heat in, I took a tranquil train rides through to the West of Ireland and reached Galway city mid- morning. The ride had been filled with views of great fields of green and an interesting political conversation with an Irishman. Warning, if you start up any politics with the Irish, it will be a long conversation. Actually, most conversations, especially with men in Ireland, will be long and take a while to end. It was a wam, bam, 48 hours well spent and I wished it had been longer.

FullSizeRender 5

The weather took a funny turn right after I arrived, I got off the train needing a good long walk, dropped cases at the bed and breakfast and took College down into the downtown area of Eyre Square, passing through the shopping mall that boasted one of the remaining walls of this great walled city of Ireland. I headed down into Quay and Spanish Arches area, chased the lanes around  for a couple of hours. It looked and smelled of rain, so I tried to cram in the sights as much as I could. Then came in the storm. I had been napping at the B&B and the whole place shook. Within 10 minutes and amazing wind storm with hail, thunder and tree bits blew in and was gone. That’s Galway for you.

FullSizeRender 7

A Taste of Irish Feminism: Crestfall by Mark O’Rowe

One of the main reasons I was in Galway was to take in a play as the Arts Festival was in full swing. I had been trying to book plays from overseas and several had sold out but luckily I snagged a seat at the Druid for Crestfall, a play with three powerful women on a night and what their lives had culminated in for that one night. Deep and insightful to the psyche of womankind it gave a great snapshot of real life tragedy and life in a tiny compact stage. I was on the edge of my seat and drawn in, raging inside with the cast. The play ended up with few favorable reviews, but I think that is because the reviewers just could not handle the raw nature of the play. I was relieved to see a man could write about women, actually capture some of the guttural essence of single mothers and other women downtrodden by society. Directed by Annabelle Comyn, and starring Kate Stanley Brennan, Siobhán Cullen, and Amy McElhatton. Three very different women struggling in a dystopian Dublin.

Galway Arts Festival

If you get a chance to come in the month of July, this festival is a good kick off for festival travels. I managed three festivals this trip, and this was a great beginning. In the beautiful surroundings of the city and university, the big top is also filled with concerts and Trad musicians. If you are planning to go, book your accommodations early and try to get them near the river. Taxis can be rough during the festival and you will need to walk everywhere. But it’s a great little city for walking. Many big and small acts come to the festival, with some famous Irish musicians booking in because they like the festival. Keep an eye on the website as tickets sell out fast.

FullSizeRender 2

Dress in layers, you are by the sea. There is a great many shops to keep you busy. I usually don’t do the tourist shops things, mainly stick to galleries of which there are plenty in this town. Plenty of buskers and jewelry and clothing stalls to pass the time with. Galway is one of the arts hubs of Ireland with creativity on every corner. And then of course Galway is a tourist hub, filled with tour buses and bus barns that amazingly manage to fit in such a small downtown area.

FullSizeRender 3

Connemara

The west of Ireland has many magical places to visit, all lush and green. I had planned for months on my day two being a fantastic trip to the Aran Islands. The weather the following day got even worse, the ocean filled with darkness and wind, so I opted for a coach tour of Connemara National Park instead. What a ride; fjords, endless sheep and landscapes, all seen in the mostly rain filled summer’s day. If you can manage it, stay in the park either camping or at a nearby inn. There is so much to see and experience hiking it will take at least a full day. The highlight of the tour was the Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Gardens estate tour. This massive estate was once home to a very wealthy family, but now has been converted to an Benedictine Abbey. The grounds are lush and rambling, you are in for a good walk with many photo opportunities.

Ireland’s west coast and the Atlantic Way is filled with a great many treats for the senses, wear layers and bring your imagination. Two days was not enough, so if you can manage it try for three to four days to explore this beautiful area fully. This is one of the few places where doing a hire car with a group may be your best advantage so you can get to all of the sights around Galway. Just be patient if you drive into Galway, for the streets pack fast and it may be better to park at the outskirts and walk in.

FullSizeRender 4

Spanish Arches

Abbey

Benedictine Abbey

connemarastatepark

Connemara State Park

Victorian Walled Garden

Victorian Walled Gardens

Topolabamba (Glasgow, Scotland) — Caitlin Jean Russell

Earlier in the week I was lucky enough to collaborate with Topolabamba Glasgow, a Mexican restaurant on St Vincent Street. In recent years, this area of the city centre has flourished with new and exciting restaurants, and Topolabamba fits the bill perfectly. Glasgow has very few sit-down Mexican restaurants, so it’s great to find one…

via Topolabamba (Glasgow, Scotland) — Caitlin Jean Russell

Saturday Musings: Belfast Walks and Foodie Havens

7180845101_d8b1c7b364_z

Belfast spring is picking up nicely. There have been some lucky weather days of late, almost California climes. That means sunbathing in the parks and the hunt for food. Not to mention the lovely walks getting there. Get your suncream on. Take that vitamin D.

Morning Start

Coffee and tea, breakfast goodies sound the thing. Belfastians are chomping on the bit and out in it today. Did you take some Vitamin D this am? What are some of the best places for a great breakfast in this town? Harlem has the atmosphere for me. No matter what town I travel to, a breckie place like this just makes me want to slide into the booth and salivate. Gluten free offerings, too.

However, if you are on the move and want to just get out in the fine weather, the Market Stalls and pop-ups in St. Georges’ look to be the treat for eating and hanging about. Great shops to look in when done as well.

Afternoon of Dreams

Now, how about those walks? Great entertainment and healthy for families as well. Just walking the neighborhoods is great fun, but combine that with a park walk and you get it all in. Self Guided Belfast tours are listed here, and you can use some City walks apps as well, check your Android or Apple Apps for travel apps featuring Belfast. Do not forget the Belfast Art Walks, many of the tours and paths intersect so you can fill your day, but don’t forget to nap on a green somewhere, bring a blanket or rug. And just like in any city you visit this spring, shop the farmer’s markets for your picnic fare.

Are you out and about in Belfast today? Let us know your finds. Fill your Instagram account today.

Places

Harlem Bistro on Bedford Street

http://harlembelfast.co.uk

Best Breakfasts in Belfast

http://www.belfastlive.co.uk/whats-on/food-drink-news/18-brilliant-breakfasts-in-belfast-8547716

Self Guided Tour

http://visitbelfast.com/home/search-keywords/Self-guided%20tours/151

Free Useful Apps Ireland

http://www.ireland.com/en-us/what-is-available/articles/apps-for-ireland/

Mural Tours

https://www.virtualbelfastmuraltour.com/map-of-belfast-murals.htm

Best Parks in Belfast

http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/telebest/activity-leisure/tele-recommends-northern-irelands-best-public-parks-30344585.html

Eat Belfast Guide

http://visitbelfast.com/assets/gallery/generic/FINALVBEatBelfastGuide.pdf

Farmer’s Markets Belfast

http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/telebest/food-drink/tele-recommends-northern-irelands-best-farmers-markets-30402148.html

Other Posts

Street Art Glasgow Interview

Art Walks: Spring in the UK and Ireland


Photo © 2012 William Murphy

 

Saturday Musings: Dublin Out and About Spring What’s On

34246900636_340b031dde_o

I love watching people. When I go to a city I love to sit in a cafe and just people watch. I also like to do and explore. I have always been a wanderer of the odd and strange. I like neighborhoods and their communities. I can’t wait to get back into a place like Dublin and get a feel for things. Tough when you are not a local, or a Dub. You can try to scratch the surface of a city, but not necessarily get a truer feeling for it with online guides. So, the answer is, always read up on the local What’s On, and I always look for the independent and non mainstream.

When you land in a city and need to get a feel for it, neighborhoods are the best bet I feel. Catching up with a local feel even if you aren’t a local to this city is more holistic. Starting with a cup of coffee in the morning, and finding the right cafe is key. While Dublin and many other Euro cities have Starbucks imports, just like at home here in the PDX the fine crafted local coffee and beer brews are the thing. You are supporting small businesses which mean local families. Plus you can really talk to artisan baristas about what they are doing.

Clement and Pekoe sounds like the treat for me, and will I check out Petit Cafe as I really like the small homey ones, since that’s so up my alley for sleepy wake up mornings. What will you adventure with in coffee in Dublin? Let me know your favorite coffee spaces.

Article The Top 10 Independent Coffee Shops in Town
https://lovindublin.com/food/the-top-10-independent-coffee-shops-in-town

Lunch or having your tea in the afternoon after walking the town? I spend hours roaming area and trying to get to as much as I can that is alternative or just unique to an area. I find that restaurants can be hit or miss, but pop ups can be fun because someone new is coming in with a new foodie sensations to try. In Dublin the places for Pop Up culture are Granby Park, Temple Bar area, Dawson Street area, Henry Street and Merchant Quay areas. Pop-Ups happen as they are much easier to start up than a brick and mortar type restaurant or shop. They still have their challenges as any merchant will tell you, but the Pop-Up can offer you a great affordable experience to your shopping experience, and talking to the people running these fabulous treats will give you great cultural insight to the area. Chat up a Poppie.

Oh, and of course moving on to the lovely afternoon brew of the well crafted amber liquid will snag your taste buds too. Dublin has started exploding with craft beer in the last few years. Dublin has beer a plenty, and besides it’s most famous exports, has the crafty artisan variety plenty. Look for Porterhouse Brewing, Trouble Brewing with it’s Pumpkin, and Eight Degrees.

Not a beer drinker. I must confess that being a Cali Expat, I grew up on wine. Wine can be hit and miss in the isles I have found, great imports mostly from France and Italy, you can find some really good wines. In my recent travels I did find that some South American Sauvignon Blanc seemed to be popular. Sometimes you can find a good German Rhine at some wine merchant’s. For some of the best wine bars, try Ely Bar & Brasserie or La Caverna. Or check out the wine merchants in town to snag a bottle for an evening picnic since it’s light until 10 pm or later in the summer.

Now, what’s really going on this next month here, well Drop Dead has a Burlesque show Sunday the 30th, looks like some great Ska music going down on May 5 With Selector and The Beat for an after party. For some great shows, go to The Grand Social.

Calendar for May
http://www.dublintown.ie/whats-on-events/may-listing-at-the-grand-social/

Check Out What’s On
http://www.dublintown.ie/whats-on/

15 Top Craft Beer Bars in Dublin
https://foursquare.com/top-places/dublin/best-places-craft-beer

Top Wine Bars
http://thetaste.ie/wp/13-great-wine-bars-to-visit-in-dublin-this-christmas/

10 Dublin Pop-Ups
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/ireland/articles/10-dublin-pop-ups-to-check-out-in-2017/

Are you a resident Dub or travelled there recently, share your foodie finds with us.

Binge on the Fringe: Edinburgh Fringe Festival Survival

14114893239_863c505ee8_o

On the last tour in Scotland I couldn’t get anywhere near Fringe Festival, the month long Arts fest that has been going strong for 70 years. All accommodations were booked up that I could afford. My trip to Edinburgh ended up being the week before and after talking to a few residents, realized I would need to book about an year in advance for best lodgings. This is of course if you want to deal with a large European city that has its population swell about three-fold in four weeks. Had to think about that. I lived in San Francisco where this came close to happening every summer. When you live in a large tourist destination, it’s your least favorite time of year. Some stay, some go on their own vacations.

It’s the 70th year, so the festival is gearing up even bigger. This festival is insane. I picked up the program last year and spent an hour or two combing all the acts and theatre performances. It’s packed and overwhelming with something for everyone. I decided I would have to try to make it this year. Now, how do you navigate one of the largest festivals in Europe for your first time and if you only have three days to spare? Research, of course.

Step 1 Book Accommodations Way Ahead
As I said before, last year I just couldn’t get reasonable rooms. Everyone I talked to said book early. Edinburgh is the most expensive of the cities in Scotland I found to spend time in as far as accommodations go. So shopping early is a great choice. You can always adjust later. Other festivals in the UK also require early bookings, and don’t count on camping accommodations as those will have been snagged up, unless you have some traveling companions in the know. You can however book in adjacent towns and ride in on the train, which runs extra trains during August.

Step 2 Enroll on Fringe Website
Most festivals have a website and you should join early. You will get updates to performances as new lineups happen. I am checking in as I heard many popular shows sell out quick. I am not be familiar with many of the performers, but I am only in the city for three days and have to cram. And some US performers do make it to the marathon. I see there is a Fringe society planning group for your visit. Ooo, I have pals.

Looks like I may have to book my train run early ish as well. ScotRail has festival trains for the month, but they may be a bit packed, so better book the to the festival run at least a month out. What a contrast is will be from the tranquility of Skye where I will be coming from.

Did I say marathon? Yes, for the performers and the patrons. Many a US comic has lamented that they survived the Fringe Fest. It’s a month of shows and you may have 2-3 a day to do, and your venues can be spread out. Search for some comedy on Netflicks with Fringe Fest in the title and see what I mean. Get a perspective from a comic, and of course YouTube.

Step 3 Research, Who to See, or How to See Them
Okay, so here is the thing. There are thousands of shows and performers. Many of them trying to make it, new to it, feeling it out. It’s a festival, that means experimentation. You may find some names you are familiar with, but it’s not going to be a headliner affair like you may be used to in your home town. So, how to pick things to go to and not strike out. Go with an open mind. I know I like impromptu theatre. So, I can probably be highly amused regardless. How to do this on a limited budget? Look for free and discount shows. Go during the day. Wait for reviews. Get the App for the Fringe. Sounds like a lot of ways to get overloaded. Most of what I have read has said to wait to find deals when you get there. Keep an eye out for the daily reviews of shows. Talk to a more experienced attendee near you. I plan on interviewing people while there to get their take on the festival.

Step 4 Make Sure Your Accommodation is Really Booked.
Your accommodation should always be booked well ahead in any place you stay, but I have had weird things crop up while traveling overseas and had rooms get overbooked, and computer glitches happen. Confirm you have a booking. If you would like to go but all things are booked up, you can find accommodations in bordering towns and take the train in. Extra transit is provided during this month.

Step 5 Enjoy
With all the craziness of any festival like this, sometimes you need to pull out and decompress. Edinburgh has so many great little spots, courtyards, district areas that you can take a few streets to the left or right and find a smaller space to eat some great Pop-Up restaurant food and just let go for a bit. Making a decision on whether to cram every minute with theatre, dance, music, and all other arts can be and exhausting stimulus. That fear that you may have to choose between 3 things is a bit much for us. Remember, spontaneity can be living in the moment and just breathing.

Prepare for weather. My summer experiences in Edinburgh were that they were very close to San Francisco/Portland weather. Changeable within a day, check your weather app. Bring light rain gear, also suncream and your brelly. Hopefully the performance you are seeing is in shelter.

DOWNLOAD THE APP. As we get closer to August, the festival puts out an App that is very useful for booking and getting up to the minute information. You also have a feature where you can check shows via your location to see what is about to start near your location. You can also purchase tickets via the app. Keep an eye out for this App appearing in July in the Android and Apple Apps stores.

Reading
http://thatbackpacker.com/2016/08/22/a-first-timers-guide-to-the-edinburgh-fringe-festival/
https://www.edfringe.com
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/theatre/what-to-see/edinburgh-fringe-2016-10-top-tips-for-survival/

Video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OgNf8Pt5tOw